As September matures and the last of the peaches, blueberries, and corn disappear from farm stands around the South Coast, apple season is just getting into gear.

But Dartmouth residents may find a change at an old standby: instead of the traditional pick-your-own apples this year, for the first time, Dartmouth Orchards will be offering apple cider donuts made with its award-winning cider.

Owner Brian Medeiros — the third generation of his family to farm the 87-year-old orchard, the only one still operating in Dartmouth — said the decision comes after a tough year. 

Between a late frost and a summer drought that took nearly 95% of his peach crop, some of his pears, and a large portion of his apples, plus strict Covid-19 safety requirements, he said, pick-your-own is unfeasible this year.

Medeiros said he will start pressing his famous cider — which has won three awards at state tasting competitions — later this month.

Although he selects a mix of apples for flavor, he said, the secret isn’t in the perfect blend. “The secret is cleanliness,” he said. “I’m very very fussy. Once this gets cleaned and sanitized, when we’re pressing cider, no one is allowed in here.”

He grows dozens of varieties of apples, along with pears, peaches, plums and apricots, and keeps his own bees for honey as well. In the autumn, his stand is well stocked with brightly colored chrysanthemums and hundreds of pumpkins.

“Every year you lose something” to frost, Medeiros said. “Being a fruit grower is very risky...We’ve lost [apricots] three years in a row. Plums, we lost those two years in a row...Last year I had no pears.”

A new greenhouse is being constructed next to the stand this year, which is where Medeiros plans to put the new donut machine. 

He admitted he isn’t sure how well it will work. “This is a whole new venture for us,” he said. “This is brand new.”

One thing that will stay the same, however, is the sense of community that has grown up around the farm stand.

On a recent weekday afternoon, a staffer came in to show off her new driving license, to congratulations and applause from everyone present.

Resident Eleanor Perry — who runs an antique shop down the road — said she always gets her fruit from Medeiros. 

“He has the best,” she said. “He has the best sweetcorn, the best peaches, the best honey. The best of everything.”

The two have known each other since they were children. Perry said that when he was 12 or 13, Medeiros used to do odd jobs for her mother. 

“Because her mother paid more than my father,” Medeiros remembered with a grin. “She paid $1.50 an hour...my dad only paid 75 cents a week!”

With a difficult year for fruit — and as many customers as ever — Medeiros has had some trouble keeping his produce on the shelves, selling out of peaches as fast as he could restock them.

“Ma’am, please, you're causing a ruckus,” Medeiros joked as Perry tried to pay for her peaches. “Call security!”

“That’s his problem: he gives half his produce away,” Perry said. “He gives things to everybody. He does that all the time.” 

After leaving a bill on the counter, Perry wasn’t sure if it had gone into the till. “If I find it [in my purse], I’m coming back,” she threatened with a laugh.